If youʻve been surfing for any amount of time, youʻve probably realized how addicitive surfing can be. The need to paddle out seeps deep into the bones, to the point that you may think about paddling out when you really shouldnʻt.
I know what youʻre thinking, “Not go Surfing?
That is not something a surfer does. When the waves are good, you drop everything to be there.
But hear me out. Sometimes it makes sense not to go surf. Whether youʻre a beginner or a surf crazed lifer, you could benefit by adopting some of these reasons not to paddle out next time youʻre checking the surf.
12 Reasons When You Should Not Go Surfing
1. You Should Not Surf After A Storm
Conventional wisdom states that you should avoid the ocean for 72hrs after a storm. This is because rain will wash all sorts of pollutants and pathogens straight into the ocean, pretty much creating a toxic soup for a couple days after.
This is the case in urban areas as well as rural areas. If itʻs not the urban blight washing into the sea itʻs the toxic agriculture chemicals washing down.
The only problem with all of this is that some spots only work best right after a storm. Where I grew up in Santa Monica the waves would shape up to perfect peaky playful barrels right after a rainstorm, but the water was filth.
My mom would insist I get a Hepititus A shot every year for protection. Even though I shouldʻve stayed out, I surfed, I got really sick at the beginning of every winter and then was relatively immune for the rest of the season.
That was healthcare in the 90ʻs, things have changed a bit since then.
Learn more about whether or not itʻs OK to surf in the rain. The results may surprise you.
2. Definitely Donʻt Paddle Out If Itʻs Too Big
I have been guilty of this a few times. Itʻs just that I have always had this thing in me that would not let me not surf, no matter what the size. This got me into a few sticky situations to say the least.
Now I know what size surf I like, where my edge is and I stick there.
If you are looking at the surf and think it might be a bit too big, then think twice about paddling out.
Iʻm not saying never go out in surf youʻre not comfortable in, you should continue to push your edge in this sport, and if you are thinking about pushing your edge, be safe with this surf vest, but if you look deep inside youʻll know if the conditions arenʻt right for you.
Be sure to check the surf report before surfing as well. The swell can build at some spots surprisingly quick. It can be 2ʻ when you paddle out and build to 10ʻ drainers before you even realize what is happening.
3. Be Cautious About Surfing New Spots
Something about being a surfer, we have this urge to explore and find new surf spots. But be careful, surfing a new spot can be really dangerous, even if you see plenty of others doing it.
Some spots have hidden rocks and other underwater hazards. Others have wicked rip currents that can take you out to sea in no time.
Every surfspot should have your respect. Take time to honor it by observing the spot. Watch the waves break. Look for hidden hazards. Ask others about potential hazardous conditions you should be aware of.
After careful assessment, consider whether or not it is safe to paddle out. It is OK if it is not, thereʻs probably a better spot around the corner.
4. Is Your Body Fit For Surfing?
As I get older, this probably determines whether or not I should paddle out more than any other reason.
If my back feels at all like it might go out or if my knee is feeling week, Iʻd rather stay out of the water and do some physical training on land rather than risk injury paddling out.
Skipping a surf because your body is achy is not a big deal. Missing an entire season because you got injured not listening to your body is.
If you feel your physical conditioning has been sliding, then try getting back into shape a little before thinking of battling mother nature in the surf. Check out this post on how you can improve your paddling skills. After all, it is the hardest part of surfing.
5. Do You Have The Time To Paddle Out?
This used to never be a problem for me, all I had was time to surf. Everything else came second. But now that Iʻm older, time is more precious.
Those 3 hours it takes to complete a full surf session can be used doing so many other things, like getting some work done, hanging with the family, getting to appointments, get some shopping done, or make some dinner.
So many things in life that just want to take up our time, how does the selfish pursuit of surfing fit in? Maybe a watch can help. Surfʻs pumping but you have an appointment to get to in an hour. No worries. Paddle out and keep your eye on the time with a surf watch by Rip Curl that will even track your waves. Sometimes one wave is all it takes.
If you have somewhere to be, then be there. Keep your word and donʻt skip out on an appointment just because the waves are good. But then again, is there really anything else as important as getting yourself pitted in perfect surf?
6. Donʻt Eat Too Much Before Surfing
Usually before I surf I just eat something light, like an apple or toast or something. I like to save my big meals for after a surf.
But if you just ate a Thanksgiving meal, donʻt think you can paddle right out afterwards. Just like with swimming, wait at least 45 minutes before you think of paddling out.
But when do you eat? The waves are best during breakfast and dinner. Do I eat breakfast at 6am and dinner at 10pm after that glassed off evening session?
Youʻre going to have to figure that one out for yourself. If the waves are good in the morning have a late breakfast. If theyʻll be good in the evening, have an early dinner. That seems to work for me. I pretty much crash out after an evening session anyways.
7. Feeling Sick, Donʻt Go Out
This is probably pretty self explanatory since your body is probably already keeping you from going surfing. That wasnʻt the case for me though when I was a grom.
I had this theory that surfing helped me feel better, not sicker. So Iʻd be out there hacking up my longs and blowing mucus filled snot rockets between the waves when I probably shouldʻve been in bed.
If the waves are firing and you feel sick, itʻs OK to skip it. There will always be another swell.
Same can apply if you have any open wounds. Bringing an open wound into the water can lead to further infection. Staph and other bacteria are present in the ocean and love to enter the body through open wounds. Besides, you donʻt want to be shark bait, do you?
8. Heavy Winds When Surfing Can Be Dangerous
Winds while surfing can either be a surfers best friend or worst nightmare. I love a light little offshore winds that blow a light spray off the lip of the wave when it breaks.
Other surfers love it when itʻs a bit onshore with a sidewind so that they can work on their airs.
But in some areas these same winds can be outright dangerous. Winds can pick up in an instant and can cause you to drift offshore in mere moments.
Heavy winds can also blind you. With spray constantly blowing into your eyes, it can get really hard to see. This happened to me once. I got blown into the surf zone, set crashed on me that I didʻnt see coming and I was left gasping for air all the way to shore.
Make sure you know what the winds are capable of in your area. It could save your life.
9. Donʻt Have The Right Surfboard, Forget It
This just happened the other day in Hawaii. Two beginning surfers were attempting to paddle out in maxing pipeline on what was obviously the wrong equipment for the spot. Luckily the lifeguard saw them and told them not to go out, but they couldʻve put themselves in a really bad position.
If you show up to your local break with a longboard and the waves are 6ʻ and barrelling, you may want to rethink board choice. Most longboards are built for smaller, mushier waves. A shortboard would be best for barreling waves. Learn more about which board is easier to ride in this post.
Iʻve always said, itʻs best to have the right board for the right wave. If you donʻt have the right board, then think twice.
10. Think Again About Surfing Alone
I surf alone all the time, but that doesnʻt mean you should.
Are you just a beginner? Is the surf a little bigger than your used to?
Then you should probably have a surf buddy.
I used to surf with friends growing up all the time. It was so much fun, it made the whole experience so much better.
Nowadays though, I mostly surf alone. Maybe Iʻm old and salty. Or I just like to catch waves when I surf and save the distraction for the land. But I know what Iʻm doing and no longer push myself beyond my limits.
Should I have a surf buddy? Probably. But do I need one? No. Should you have one? I donʻt know, but maybe this article will help you find out.
11. The Locals Have Claimed The Surf Spot Already
Sometimes you roll up to your local break and the locals are already all over it. This can apply to the locals above and below the surface of the water.
Iʻve paddled out to waves where the peak is completely controlled by a tight group of surfers who have been surfing together for ages. Forget about catching waves if this is the case. Might as well stay home.
You can try pick off a few stragglers or work your way into the pack, but I donʻt have time for that these days. Iʻll just let the locals have it.
But even then there is something more local than the locals. Iʻm talking sea life. When a shark comes drifting through the lineup or a swarm of jellyfish come floating in, no ones surfing. Theyʻre in control and you better respect that.
12. You Have To Know How To Swim To Surf
You would think knowing how to swim would be obvious to most people thinking about surfing, but some believe that the board is their personal lifesaving equipment.
But what happens if you lose that surfboard? Leashes do break. Waves do wash away boards and then what. You are 100 yards from shore and can barely swim. Thatʻs not some place you want to be.
If you cannot swim well then you have no place in the water. Be sure to respect that. Work on your swimming skills first, then give surfing a try. Youʻll be that much more confident in the water which will most likely lead to you being better at surfing.
There you have it. Didnʻt think I could do it, did you? Who knew there could be so many reasons not to surf.
You donʻt have to take any of this advice and apply it, but youʻll be a much safer surfer if you do. Hope to see you out in the lineup, till next time, a hui hou!!
