Southwest France, or “Sud-Ouest” to the French, home of world class beach breaks, delicious food and picturesque surf towns: it’s a destination every surfer should visit. This guide will provide all the necessary information to make your trip go down as smooth as a glass of the region’s finest malbec.
We’ll include:
- Travel Basics
- French Surf
- 6 Spots You Should Know
- How Much Does It Cost?
- Getting To The Waves
- Post Surf Grindz
- Places to Stay Close To The Waves
France’s Basque region produces over 50 miles of beautiful coastline, from Biarritz to Moliets-et-Mar, there’s a reason it was on the WSL’s Championship Tour for so long.
If youʻre interested in learning about another amazing region for surf, Sri Lanka, be sure to check out this guide.
France Travel Basics
Getting To France:
Biarritz’ airport is located just 10 minutes drive from the city’s famous beaches of Anglet and Grande Plage and only 40 minutes from Europe’s surfing capital – Hossegor.
Whilst many European airlines fly direct to Biarritz, those from outside of Europe will have to transfer in Paris. Alternatively, trains run direct from Paris to Biarritz five times a day, taking around 4 hours. Bilbao International Airport in Northern Spain is also just a 2 hour drive from Hossegor.
Safety
France is a very safe country to travel and there are few reasons to be worried while visiting. However, like every surf town and busy city, be watchful when leaving your board unaccompanied outside busy places and keep an eye out for pickpockets in town centers. I like to keep my money in a moneybelt when I travel.
And for christsakes, donʻt leave your valuables left unattended on the beach when you go out for a surf.
Weather
France has four distinct seasons. During Summer, temperatures reach as high as 104*F (40*C) – although in July 2022 temperatures did hit 122*F (50*C)!.
During Winter, the average drops to 50*F (10*C), whilst Spring and Autumn offer a comfortable in between.
Therefore, a 3:2 or 2:2 wetsuit is fine to see you through both the Summer and Autumn seasons, with a 4:3 potentially necessary for Winter and early Spring.
Money
France is part of the Euro and is the only currency accepted. ATMs are available in every town, but card payments are widely accepted.
Tipping
It is commonplace to tip around 10% of your bill in restaurants or bars, otherwise it is down to individual discretion in other settings.
Transportation
Public transport is available in Southwest France, with local buses running between the surf towns of Moliets-et-mar, Hossegor and Seignosse.
Biarritz is on a train line, linking it to Paris, cities in northern Spain and St Vincent de Tyrosse – (the closest train station to Hossegor).
However, the best way to travel this region is by renting a car. This will provide you the freedom to explore the vast beaches and variety of towns along the coast. Car rental services are available at Biarritz airport and in the city itself.
Airport – Biarritz
- Bus – $2. 15 minutes. Bus 36 runs direct every hour, on the hour from the Airport.
- Taxi – $5-$8. 5-10 minutes. Taxis available at the airport.
Airport – Hossegor
- Bus, Train, Bus. ~$15. ~3 hours. Bus to Biarritz train station, train to St Vincent de Tyrosse, Bus from station to Hossegor town center.
- Taxi – $70-$80. 30 minutes. Taxis available at the airport.
Cell Phone:
If you have a sim card from another EU country, your normal plan will continue to work in France at the same rates. For those travelers from further afield, sim cards can be purchased in Biarritz airport for around $10 for 2GB, or $40 for a 20GB card online on Amazon.
The most popular networks are Orange Holiday or SFR.
Fast wifi with high download speeds are available in every cafe, restaurant and hotel.
Surf of Southwest France
The Surf Season
Undoubtedly, the best time to surf in Southwest France is Autumn. September, October and November provide the best opportunity to score waves for surfers of all abilities.
Big northwesterly swells combine with favorable offshore winds to produce clean, glassy waves over famous sand banks, such as La Gravier and La Nord. However, waves can be found all year round.
Wave Types:
The majority of waves in the Southwest break onto sand, with only a few surfable reefs situated south of Biarritz. There are waves for all surfers and all abilities.
Skill level:
Anyone can surf here. The beach breaks allow for beginner friendly waves on smaller days, whilst famous waves such as La Nord and La Gravier in Hossegor – spots frequented by the WSL Championship tour until 2020 – can provide punchy barrels for those with nerves of steel.
Throughout Autumn, towns such as Vieux Boucau or Moliets-et-Mar suit the more intermediate level, with shoulder to head high waves rolling consistently over sand bottomed beaches.
Crowd Level:
During Summer, the entire coastline is jam packed with tourists fighting for waves. Surf schools dominate the beginner spots, whilst the more advanced breaks such as Les Estagnots are full of local groms, or advanced surfers on their holidays.
The later into Autumn you go, the less crowded the waves become. If you’re after a cold-water strike mission, then Winter can provide punchy barrels on empty beaches.
Sharkieness
There is no reason to fear sharks or other sea creatures whilst surfing here.
6 Surf Spots You Should Know
Plage d’Erromardie – Saint Jean de Luz
Plage d’Erromardie, just 20 minutes drive south of Biarritz, provides mellow cruisy waves. Take your longboard out at mid tide to enjoy crumbling lefts along the central break.
Main Break, Vieux Boucau
Perfect for intermediate surfers, this quiet town, located 20 minutes north of Hossegor, lights up in Autumn. Producing clean shoulder high A frame waves, it’s surfable on all tides except dead high and low and a great option to score relatively uncrowded waves.
La Gravier, Hossegor
The most famous spot along the coast, La Gravier is home to the annual Quiksilver Pro. Breaking just a short walk from Hossegor La Central, on a medium sized swell, this sandbank produces thick-lipped tubes.
Strong currents created by bigger swells make it very difficult to stay in the correct position without a jetski when the swell is really big.
Grande Plage, Biarritz
One of the most photographed spots in the entire Basque country, Grande Plage is a great spot for beginners and intermediates wanting a walkable city beachbreak that offers gentle waves and for that reason, is rarely quiet.
Les Estagnots, Seignosse
Just north of Hossegor, the break of Estagnots can handle bigger swells better than most in the area. Producing hollow A Frames at high tide and long walls at low, the break is a favored spot amongst locals and tourists. Be sure to get to this break early to find a parking spot.
Main break, Moliets et Mar
Perfect for beginners, this mellow spot is full of surf schools and beginners alike. The consistent currents of this region are smaller here, making it the perfect spot for beginners to learn the ropes.
How Much Does It Cost
Budget For Surf Bums
The best option for surf bums is to travel in Autumn. Schools reopen and the onslaught of tourists is greatly reduced, creating surplus accommodation.
Campsites with mobile homes or fixed tents can be found for $15 a night. Local buses stop at all major supermarkets in towns such as Vieux Boucau, Moliets-et-Mar and Biarritz. Here, you can do a weekly shop for 2 people for around $100, beers and french cheese included.
A rough estimate for surfers on a strict budget:
- $100/week for a tent or mobile home on a campsite in Autumn.
- $100 weekly food shop for majority of meals in.
- $8 for a return bus journey.
- $15 for a few casual post surf beers.
Approximately $50 per night.
Budget for Surfers with A Job
A reasonable room on Booking.com can be found for around $80 per night during Autumn. These spacious homes, or ideally located apartments, will be equipped with wifi and aircon.
Dining out will cost you around $15 for a main course, with a good bottle of wine costing around the same. Treating yourself to lunch or brunch at a cool surf shack will cost around $7-$10, whilst a beer on the seafront at sunset will cost you a cool $7.
If you’re over the age of 25, car rental will cost around $250 for the week.
A rough estimate for surfers with a little room in their budget:
- $80/night for an airbnb on the beach.
- $25 for a meal and a glass of wine.
- $250/week for car rental.
- $8 for a surf shack snack
- $15 for a few casual post surf beers.
Approximately $160 per night
Budget for Surfers With A Trust Fund
Hossegor and Biarritz can accommodate those surfers with a bit more spare change. Beautiful accommodations can be found through Booking.com which are located on the beachfront for between $200 – $300/night.
Sampling the region’s finer restaurants can cost around $60, with a brilliant bottle of red costing up to $50. More spacious cars can be rented for $300-$400 per week and a night out or two at one of Hossegor’s famous bars will cost around $60 per person.
A rough estimate for surfers no budget:
- $250/night and up for a spacious Airbnb or luxury hotel.
- $70 for a meal and a glass of wine.
- $350/week for car rental.
- $15 for lunch on the beach
- $60 for a night out
Approximately $450 per night.
Getting To The Waves
Again, a car is your best bet. There is public transport around this area, however, it’s not frequent or flexible enough to really allow you to explore the vast array of surf spots on offer.
Most of the beaches have car parks (around $5 during summer) or street parking. Car rental from many large brands such as Europcar or Sixt are available at Biarritz airport.
If you don’t drive, youʻll want to make use of the buses. They do run throughout the year, albeit, not that regularly. Local buses go from Hossegor, to Soustons and Moliets-et-Mar, via Vieux Boucau. Unfortunately, you will then have to walk from the towns to the surf spots (anywhere between 10 and 30 minutes).
Direct buses run every hour, on the hour, from Biarritz airport to Biarritz center.
Post Surf Grindz
The one thing you definitely don’t have to worry about whilst in France is their food and wine. French gastronomy, perfectly influenced by the Basque culture, creates a blend of cuisine like no other. Three places you have to check out are listed below.
Chez Minus, Capbreton
This laid back restaurant offers a small menu of fresh seafood. Fresh ‘moules frites’ paired with some iconic regional wine is a must whilst in the region. Boasting a simple menu with only three options, a colossal bowl of mussels and chips will cost around $15 per person and a bottle of wine the same.
Under the Mango Tree, Hossegor
This street food vendor, located on Hossegor’s picturesque lakeside, provides fresh vegan and vegetarian burritos and bowls for around $10 each. Take one of their picnic mats and replenish after a sunrise surf whilst watching the word go by on the lakeside beach.
Casa Bixente, Biarritz
When in Biarritz, you must try pintxos – the Basque regions take on tapas. Located in the center of Biarritz, Casa Bixente offers affordable pintxos, cold meats and cheese in a local, yet tourist friendly atmosphere. Each plate will cost between $6 and $8.
Stay Close To The Waves
Best Place For A Surf Bum
Star Surf Camps/Pure Surf Camps, Moliets-et-Mar
Moliets-et-Mar is home to over 10 surf camps located on a large campsite – ‘Camping Les Cigales’. Surf camps, such as Star Surf, or Pure Surfcamps offer lessons, accomodation and two meals a day for around $300 a week.
Best Place For The Surf Family
Booking.com
The best option for families traveling is to look on Airbnb for apartments or houses in towns such as Hossegor, Seignosse or Vieux Boucau. A 4 person room through Booking.com during the Summer will cost around $150-$250, becoming cheaper in September when all the European schools restart.
Best Place for That Trust Fund Surfer
Hotel du Palais, Biarritz
Situated on the Grande Plage in Biarritz, you can’t stay anywhere more iconic when surfing the Basque country. A King Bedroom, with views of the waves and beach, will cost around $500 per night.
The French Surf Paradise Awaits
I donʻt know about you, but writing this guide made me dream about heading back to France to surf those perfect waves again.
If you have the chance to go, take it! Itʻs the trip of a lifetime. If you go in the fall, it will not disappoint. Bon Jour!
